Sunday 8 June 2008

in place of beauty

Ok. It's official. Phi Phi island is officially the most beautiful place I have ever been to. Gorgeous beaches, stunningly clear blue sea, fabulous food, amazing bars and affordable accommodation. Leaving would be difficult.


But leave is what I did do on Sunday morning after four nights on an island I could happily be stranded on forever. I spent Saturday afternoon floating in the sea, the evening on the beach sipping cocktails and watching various fire juggling antics. A big part of me wanted to stay, but I was concerned that the remaining two weeks of the holiday would just degenerate into one big piss up on the beach followed by another - and nothing else.


I caught the 9am boat over to Phuket, which was pretty damn horrific. The sea was choppy and the boat reeked of petrol. I spent the entire journey sipping water and trying not to puke up.


We arrived in Phuket at around 11am, where a taxi bus was waiting to take me on to Patong beach and my hotel. I had heard conflicting reports about Phuket, ranging from the indifferent to the incandescent. To be honest, I hadn't planned on making this place part of my trip. It just seemed easier to stop here a night before making my way up to Cambodia - the next destination - rather than trying to do it all from Phi phi in one day.


It was not long before I was yearning to return to Phi Phi. I took an instant dislike to Phuket the moment I got there. It seemed shabby, tacky and frequented by fat Germans. Which it, erm, is.


After checking in at my admittedly decent hotel, I went for a stroll. After four days of generally being left to my own devices, it was a bit disconcerting to get the full on Thai hussler treatment from all and sundry trying to flog taxis, t-shirts, speed boats and sex. I could not walk more than 30 seconds without someone trying to sell me something. I accept this is the way things are here, but the people I encountered today were insufferable. Women offering 'massages' - hookers, basically - would literally try and block me from walking down the pavement by thrusting their breasts into me. Blokes would try and shake your hand in an attempt to strike up a sales pitch for some dodgy bit of electrical equipment, and would become indignant when you refused...


Phuket is the Benidorm and Blackpool of Thailand. I thank God for the fact I have only to spend one night in this place. It really is just a sprawl of chain outlets and resorts catering for the desires of fat people.


It's funny how beach towns always bring out such conflictingly strong emotions in people. You can love a seaside place as much as another person hates it in a ferocity that doesn't exist when we talk about resorts. Maybe I'm just staying in a crap bit of Phuket and elsewhere lies destinations to die for, but I won't be hanging around to find out.


Off to Cambodia in the morning. What I would give to be back on Phi Phi though...

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